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Tim Steele

Manly Clutch pull questions & Project S2A lives

Project S2A is together !!!  :D  :D  :D
Thanks to The Blingmaster Dr. Mark Haase who let me invade his home and work him like a rented mule...1 and 1/2 days of nearly round the clock work, 900 miles travelled and she runs like a champ with the Boyer Brandsen ignition, 400 carbs ,(Thanks John Aylor for a sweet deal) Some unknown chamber issues nearly shelved the whole deal, but sparks flew, welds were made and power wheelies ensued less than 24 hours after my arrival. :D  :D  :D
The bike runs and shifts great. The clutch does not slip even at 9000 + power wheelie speeds...The clutch pull (S3 400  stock springs & clutch assembly complete , primary gear &  new stock fibers). is worse than any Barnett in any H2 I ever had. The cable is free and lubed and I am 99% sure the clutch is assembled and adjusted correctly but it feels like it is binding in the actuator or rod when you pull the lever you can hear the actuator or rod ??? literally groaning( engine off) .
I didn't take the clutch rod out I just put on the basket and primary from the S3 . I moved it manually before installation by working the actuator up & down with the pusher installed in the hub and no plates or springs, it was smooth as glass,  so that rules out any rod problems ???
The nylon clutch actuator appeared good, I greased it with some moly grease and it felt smooth with no load on it. Laurie at PHR told me they bad about cracking and being good to the eye but spreading and binding under pressure. She reccomended a ball bearing pusher which I have or a Sytec.
Next question.
Can one mount a ball bearing clutch pusher in a S Series motor without screwing up the seal that holds the trans oil in like the early H2's when retrofitting the late  ball bearing actuator, i.e. Do you have to space them away from the case ?? If so how much  ???.The  ball bearing actuator that came from an S3 or KH 400 ?? can't remember or all the ball bearing actuators the same???
Please advise me as to the correct course of action. thanks in advance
simonh

unfortuntely thats normal for a s3 clutch, you've done the usual and the clutch doesnt slip, so all mechanisms must be working as good as they do.

only option is ballbearing actuator- fits with no mods 8)
Tim Steele

Thanks Simon

I just happen to have a ball bearing actuator...
Tim Steele

???

So, Do I need to pull it apart or what??? I didn't see any marks on the pressure plate or hub. I just put it together ??? Will a ball bearing type release work and not take out the seal or do I need to space it to make sure??? If I need to space it how thick do I need to make the spacers???
Tim
Tim Steele

Found the answer to a part of my question



The ball bearing actuator question I still need help with . Will the pressure plate not being aligned cause my hard pull problem??? By the way the B/B actuator I have s from a KH400.
Thanks
180kid

yes Tim, you have to put the outer pressure plate on correctly, it will kind of feel like its seated properly when it fits home,

i have the 7 plate 400 mod to my 350, and its firm but not tight with 10% stronger springs, all 5,..and stock S1 puller, so it seems something is wrong in the assembly of the clutch case,..
The Wolfman

I know you're all gonna rebuff this but.... you shouldn't need to lubricate nylon, if anything you should degrease it.

WD especially is a very poor lubricant for sliding surfaces, slidex or another silicon oil is far better if you're gonna do it.
180kid

no rebuff just whatever works,.
assembled the clutch lifter, a nylon one dry, fitted sprocket cover and gear-lever, and tried the clutch it was all notchy not smooth, took all apart and used some copper grease on splines, and worked very good after, its old nylon now with some wear and tear, unless lucky enough to have a NOS one,..perhaps in time shite will ingresse to the grease, but at mo' it works great,.
i can reccommend lube at this age,.. :lol:
The Wolfman

probably as you say Brian, once there has been some grit in there and old chain grease.. soon scratch the stuff.

I have to admit that my H2 one was getting quite lumpy so I tried grease to no avail, I finally used some silicone slidex, made a world of difference.

Back in my TV days, lubricating anything Nylon was frowned upon.
kas750

The Wolfman wrote:


Back in my TV days, lubricating anything Nylon was frowned upon.


Thought i had seen you before Gra :lol:  :lol:  :lol:
BIG AL

kas750 wrote:
The Wolfman wrote:


Back in my TV days, lubricating anything Nylon was frowned upon.


Thought i had seen you before Gra :lol:  :lol:  :lol:



wern't you in those old 70s porn films graham  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:
180kid

BIG AL wrote:
kas750 wrote:
The Wolfman wrote:


Back in my TV days, lubricating anything Nylon was frowned upon.


Thought i had seen you before Gra :lol:  :lol:  :lol:



wern't you in those old 70s porn films graham  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:


butter was good lube, forget the film though,... :lol:
The Wolfman

BIG AL wrote:
wern't you in those old 70s porn films graham  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:


I wondered what the mountain of Betamax tapes under your TV were about??

Have we got a little off subject here, Clutch pull? oh maybe not.
Nigel72iv

The Wolfman wrote:
I know you're all gonna rebuff this but.... you shouldn't need to lubricate nylon, if anything you should degrease it.


100% Correct Nylon will react and swell- permanently in some cases.
garyb

so thats why i can't fit in me pants anymore :shock:

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