Boyer Bransden electronic kit.

pele no2 · Boyer Bransden electronic kit.

Hi, after running my newly rebuilt S3A approx 350 miles, it now is running on two pots. I removed the left hand cover, and apart from the points, it looks like all the 3 original condensors are fitted, as there"s no evidence of any soldering etc. Having fitted a boyer to my Z650 and a Kh250 some years ago, i thought solve all the problems in one go and just fit a boyer kit.Anybody had any experience on an S3A or would you just get 3 condensors? Cheers Mark.

kas750

i like points so would stick with them

.............but the rest of 'em will be along in a minute recommending a boyer.

but you will need a very healthy charging system and battery to run a boyer otherwise you will be going nowhere.Also if that black box breaks down at the side of the road there is only one way that you are getting home (back of a van)You can fix points with a knife and fork!!!

kas750

btw unless you have excessive sparking at the contact breakers i would stick with the original condensors.....

The Wolfman

Condensers rarely fail but as Kas said you will get excessive spark from the points if one has failed.

However, you have a full set of spares on the bike to try swapping things around and pin down the problem.

A Boyer will fit and do the job, they do take a lot of current that would otherwise charge the battery, in the depths of winter this could mean a flat battery if the headlamp is on all day.

Once the battery voltage gets low, the Boyer will misfire and cause the engine to splutter, so a good battery is a must.

180kid

just check for oily deposits around the points and plates, could be a slight leak to left oil seal behind the rotor, not evident at first, which throws the dribbles around, presume you cleaned the contacts ?,

yes boyer is good but a new battery every yr is a possibility /must, especially after winter lay up,...and a spot on bike charging system required,.

BIG AL

Never had a problem with my boyer and run with the lights on always banged on the second kick , but then i always stuck the optimate on regular

like ade, bri, and wolfie say if the boyer breaks down your going nowhere stick to points for ease, at least if you do breakdown with points you can fudge it and get running maybe on 3 -2 or even 1 cylinder but you will get home

Al

kas750

This is an interesting halfway house to a full electronic ignition.Will be interested to hear wolfies opinion on it.Should fit a kv also which is food for thought.Also because it retains the points it can be returned to standard at the roadside

http://www.realclassic.co.uk/bmwr8009080500.html

http://www.roosterignitions.com/

The Wolfman

Transistorised ignitions are nothing new, yep a good idea to prevent the pitting of points faces, not maintenance free, just less maintenance needed.

Two points to reckon:

First, the heel of the points will still wear so expect them to need a little re adjustment every once in a while.

Second, the points will tarnish and accumulate dirt + oil over a period and can become intermittent or non existant, so also expect to give them a clean once in a while.

The contacts in the original setup are self cleaning by virtue of those unwanted sparks...

simonh

The Wolfman

Every day is a school day...

pele no2

The Wolfman

Cleaning with a rag is unlikely to get enough of the oil off the points, oil is an insulator and will prevent them from making contact properly, you need to address the crank seal problem, it can often be replaced without removing the engine.

Remove the chain cover then the generator housing (it can be done without disconnecting any electrics) and hang it over the footrest.

To remove the rotor, first remove the centre bolt and points cam, then remove the rotor by using a big bolt screwed in and tapped tight (the rear axle will do), be careful not to lose the tiny key that sits in the shaft.

This gives you access to the seal, it may already be half out. replace and seal it in. Last time I fitted mine (about two months ago) I punched the casings around it to spread the metal against the seal and prevent it pushing out again.

Then rebuild.

pele no2

Thanks for that advice Wolfman. would you be interested in doing the job, for a fee of course, as i don"t really like doing the engine stuff, i usually get them rebuilt by others. Thanks Mark.

The Wolfman

You have a PM.

bubba2

yes it can be done .I undone the two big nuts from underneath the crank and it gave me a mill or two maybe but it seemed to help and a tiny bit of silcone grease the red stuff you use on brake calipers good luck..

180kid

if the oil is outside the casings, this is not likely to be the problem, only from behind the rotor where seal is enclosed within the left covers, but once oil gets in there your knacked without a full clean up, better to find the source of problem,, inspect the seal for dribbles behind the rotor,.
good luck, and they are usually dirty in there, can even get contamination from the front sprocket if no gasket fitted,,..