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S3 clutch

 
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netbikes
2nd gear


Joined: 26 Dec 2007
Posts: 53


Location: Brisbane Australia

PostPosted: Sat Feb 02, 2008 9:17 am    Post subject: S3 clutch Reply with quote

Hi guys, well I am finally back to doing some work on my S3.
I have bought new friction clutch plates, 7 , but find they do not fit completely into the hub, the last one sits half in, half out. Further to that I find  there is a gap between the clutch pusher and the internal rod therefore the lever just flops about.

Now before I did this the old clutch worked but it slipped over 6 thou.

Where am I going wrong?. As far as i am aware I am putting it together correctly, that is the the first plate to go against the clutch hub is a friction followed by a spring ring followed by a steel and so on.



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The Wolfman
5th gear


Joined: 24 Oct 2007
Posts: 821


Location: South, North and East Yorkshire, It's a big place!

PostPosted: Sat Feb 02, 2008 4:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking at the exploded diagram, it shows order of fitting:-

friction-spring-steel, etc, all the way and should end in friction-spring-faceplate...... as you said 7 frictions, then 7 springs, 6 steel plates.

the faceplate fits in one (of five) position only, marked by a tiny hole on the edge of the basket and a casting marked spring hole on the plate.

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netbikes
2nd gear


Joined: 26 Dec 2007
Posts: 53


Location: Brisbane Australia

PostPosted: Sat Feb 02, 2008 4:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks wolfman, I worked it out tonight, a po had fitted an extra steel so it had seven.  It also took me a while to see the face plate would only fit correctly in one position. It is all back together now and working fine.  However looks like I have stripped the thread in the oil pump where the oil tank line banjo fits but I think it has the wrong screw in it. It is too short to take the little gaskets each side. So perhaps if I get the right screw and gaskets I can get it further up the thread and it might take...
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The Wolfman
5th gear


Joined: 24 Oct 2007
Posts: 821


Location: South, North and East Yorkshire, It's a big place!

PostPosted: Sat Feb 02, 2008 5:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

:thumright:  Glad you got the clutch sorted, it had to be something staring you in the face....
Those pumps are made from papier mache, we've probably all stripped one or other thread at some time.

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netbikes
2nd gear


Joined: 26 Dec 2007
Posts: 53


Location: Brisbane Australia

PostPosted: Sun Feb 03, 2008 9:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

well I took my clutch for a spin today, seems to work fine however i could no go far due to the leaking oil line, have ordered the bolt from Kawasaki here, guess it will be another week before I can really test it out.
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Triplehappy



Joined: 30 Oct 2008
Posts: 23


Location: Seaside, Oregon

PostPosted: Sun Nov 02, 2008 8:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

netbikes wrote:
thanks wolfman, I worked it out tonight, a po had fitted an extra steel so it had seven.  It also took me a while to see the face plate would only fit correctly in one position. It is all back together now and working fine.  However looks like I have stripped the thread in the oil pump where the oil tank line banjo fits but I think it has the wrong screw in it. It is too short to take the little gaskets each side. So perhaps if I get the right screw and gaskets I can get it further up the thread and it might take...


Yes, I had the same problem with the face plate.  It is not coverered in the shop manuals???  Let me know if your clutch slips after you test it. Mine still does.  I ordered some high performance springs from EBC for it and hope it will hold when I get them installed.  What springs do you use.

Regards,
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Triplehappy

"four out of three people have trouble with fractions"
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netbikes
2nd gear


Joined: 26 Dec 2007
Posts: 53


Location: Brisbane Australia

PostPosted: Sun Nov 02, 2008 11:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Triplehappy, I have not renewed the springs and the clutch does not slip.
It get ridden at least twice a week but mainly for short trips, I still need to replace or fix the front wheel before i ride longer. it is buckled, and i should replace the rear wheel bearings and swing arm bushes, they are not problematic, just 35 years old :D
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Triplehappy



Joined: 30 Oct 2008
Posts: 23


Location: Seaside, Oregon

PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2008 1:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

netbikes wrote:
Hi Triplehappy, I have not renewed the springs and the clutch does not slip.
It get ridden at least twice a week but mainly for short trips, I still need to replace or fix the front wheel before i ride longer. it is buckled, and i should replace the rear wheel bearings and swing arm bushes, they are not problematic, just 35 years old :D


Thanks netbikes,  Glad to hear that your clutch is working properly.  My bike is an unrestored original from Alaska of all places.  The engine was upgraded by Purple Haze Racing to about 70 hp with cylinder, head, and piston work.  So the clutch has been slipping for some time.  The new Barnett friction plates, and steel plates went in just fine, but the springs still won't hold at about 5300 rpm when the engine and Denco's come on really HARD.  So I hope the new high performance EBC springs do the trick.  I will let you know.  Below is a pic of my bike. :-)


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The Wolfman
5th gear


Joined: 24 Oct 2007
Posts: 821


Location: South, North and East Yorkshire, It's a big place!

PostPosted: Mon Nov 03, 2008 8:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some of the UK guys have fitted 3x Z1 springs to their clutches (I think on larger bikes though), I did notice however..

My worn H2 springs are now S series length... I wonder?




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